Yunnan is well known for many of its culinary treasures, such as the cured hams of Lijang and the SE Asian flavors of the south, but there’s a jewel of an adventure in the middle section of the province that often goes unnoticed. I am indebted to chef James Nozel for introducing me to the Baoshan tradition of eating raw pork in the mornings. The pig is smoked over three types of grasses, imparting color and flavor but leaving the meat ostensibly raw. We spent hours with the proprietor, Liu Li Hua, learning the process and gleaning as much as we could, and then we feasted.
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